{"id":5141,"date":"2025-08-15T03:35:57","date_gmt":"2025-08-15T00:35:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/3.235.9.173\/?p=5141"},"modified":"2025-10-22T01:03:19","modified_gmt":"2025-10-21T22:03:19","slug":"36-hours-in-santiago-chile","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/en\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/","title":{"rendered":"36 Hours in Santiago, Chile: Things to Do and See &#8211; The New York Times"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/interactive\/2023\/09\/21\/travel\/things-to-do-santiago-chile.html\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/interactive\/2023\/09\/21\/travel\/things-to-do-santiago-chile.html\">The New York Times<\/a> &#8211; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><br>Because Santiago, Chile\u2019s sprawling capital, is the gateway to some of the world\u2019s greatest natural wonders \u2014 Patagonia, the Atacama Desert, Easter Island \u2014 many travelers understandably breeze through. It might not wow like Rio de Janeiro or Buenos Aires, but scratch the surface and the city is alive with music, art and nightlife, against the arresting backdrop of the Andes. Divisions still run deep, 50 years after Gen. Augusto Pinochet\u2019s U.S.-backed&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2023\/09\/11\/world\/americas\/chile-coup-50-anniversary.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">coup d\u2019\u00e9tat<\/a>&nbsp;ushered in a 17-year dictatorship. Just four years ago, Chile exploded into cathartic and, at times, violent unrest, as hundreds of thousands of Santiaguinos protested social inequalities. The scars are there for all to see. But if you\u2019ve made it all this way, you should give Santiago a chance to impress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Recommendations<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Key stops<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>A hike to the top of&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/parquemet.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Cerro San Crist\u00f3bal<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;offers the best views of the city and the Andes Mountains, particularly after rain has cleared the air.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Persa V\u00edctor Manuel<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;flea market boasts music, art and good food on Saturdays and Sundays.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/mmdh.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;tells the story of General Pinochet\u2019s dictatorship, and helps to explain the Chile you see today.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Restaurants and nightspots<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/pulperiasantaelvira.cl\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">La Pulper\u00eda Santa Elvira<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;remixes seasonal Chilean classics and is one of Santiago\u2019s most exciting restaurants.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/salsotecamaestravida\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Salsoteca Maestra Vida<\/a><\/strong>, a two-room salsa club, gets going late and takes you through into the small hours.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/blondieclubcl\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Blondie<\/a><\/strong>, a former cinema-turned-L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub, hosts a varied crowd.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/barelbajo.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">El Bajo<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;is a plant-filled mezzanine bar beneath the&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gam.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">GAM<\/a><\/strong>, an arts center in the historic Lastarria neighborhood that hosts exhibitions, book fairs and live events.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/casadelacueca\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Casa de la Cueca<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;showcases Chile\u2019s national dance, la cueca, and serves hearty dishes on the first Sunday of each month.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/elportalexbahamondes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">El Portal Ex Bahamondes<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;is the birthplace of the completo, Chile\u2019s culinary obsession.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/elfranchutedelbarrio\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">El Franchute del Barrio<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;is the lively setting for French-inspired weekend lunches.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/djdh3kzVERVARckn6\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Caf\u00e9 Escondido<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;is a fun bar tucked down an alleyway in the city center.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Museums, galleries and shopping<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/fundacionneruda.org\/en\/museums-houses\/la-chascona-museum-house\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">La Chascona<\/a><\/strong>, the former home of the poet Pablo Neruda, is stuffed with trinkets and collectibles.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.santiagoturismo.cl\/factoria-franklin\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Factor\u00eda Franklin<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;is a new arts and cultural space with stalls, creative workshops and&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/galeriaafa\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">AFA Galer\u00eda<\/a><\/strong>, a modern art gallery.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/instagram.com\/barriopueblitolosdominicos?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Centro Artesanal Los Dominicos<\/a><\/strong>, a former convent right at the end of L1 on the metro, is a one-stop shop for Indigenous handicrafts, leatherware and assorted artisanry.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/metalespesados.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Metales Pesados<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/uliseslastarria.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Ulises<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;in the city center are two of Santiago\u2019s finest bookstores.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Where to stay<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thesingular.com\/santiago\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">The Singular Santiago<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;in Lastarria is an upmarket option with a smart rooftop bar and views towards Cerro San Crist\u00f3bal. Double rooms start from around 180,000 Chilean pesos, or about $204, for the night.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.castillorojohotel.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Hotel Boutique Castillo Rojo<\/a><\/strong>, in a renovated colonial mansion in the Bellavista neighborhood, is a boutique option with rooms starting from about 140,000 pesos.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.hostalforestal.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Hostal Forestal<\/a><\/strong>, a laid-back city center hostel, has private rooms with ensuite bathrooms starting from 32,000 pesos. A bunk bed in a six-to-eight-person dormitory costs about 12,000 pesos.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Short-term rentals<\/strong>&nbsp;are abundant. Find somewhere along the metro\u2019s L1 in Providencia or Lastarria to be close to the action.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Getting around<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Uber<\/strong>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<strong>Cabify<\/strong>&nbsp;compete for ride-hailing traffic, and both are safe and reliable.&nbsp;<strong>Taxis<\/strong>&nbsp;are fine, too, but you\u2019ll nearly always have to pay in cash \u2014 make sure the meter is running before you set off. The&nbsp;<strong>metro<\/strong>&nbsp;is extensive and safe, but as with any city, watch out for pickpockets.&nbsp;<strong>Buses<\/strong>&nbsp;rattle along all of the main routes and are relatively cheap and easy to use.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Streetside<strong>&nbsp;bike rental<\/strong>&nbsp;(download the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/bikeitau.com.br\/santiago\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bike Ita\u00fa app<\/a>) is a good option, but parking docks are concentrated in the wealthier neighborhoods. Be wary of disconnected bike paths and merciless bus drivers. On Sundays, many of the city\u2019s main arteries are closed to cars for the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/ciclorecreovia.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Ciclorecreov\u00eda<\/a>, an event that allows for leisurely exploration on foot and by bike.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Itinerary<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Friday<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-ljqm\/21hours-santiago-ljqm-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"People dance while holding colorful handkerchiefs. Behind them is a brightly painted mural of an outdoor scene.\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>7:30 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Step to the rhythm of la cueca<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To the uninitiated, la cueca, which was declared Chile\u2019s national dance by the Pinochet regime in 1979, can appear a bewildering whirl of handkerchiefs and heels. Get the basics at&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/casadelacueca\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">la Casa de la Cueca<\/a>, a cheerful dancehall at the top of a narrow staircase in the up-and-coming Matta Sur neighborhood. On Fridays, the establishment hosts dance classes (3,000 Chilean pesos, or about $3.40) to a live soundtrack of local musicians. Mar\u00eda Esther Zamora and her husband, Pepe Fuentes, opened the space in 1996, bedecking it with flags and photographs of the city. Sadly, Mr. Fuentes passed away in 2020 and the pandemic nearly forced the place\u2019s closure, but the dance classes \u2014 and raucous three-course lunches on the first Sunday of each month (22,000 pesos, book in advance) \u2014 show that la Casa de la Cueca is back stronger than ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-jbhl\/21hours-santiago-jbhl-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"A dish with an immaculate presentation \u2014 a crisp lattice is placed on top of what appears to be meat. On top of the lattice are colorful small flowers and green leaves.\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>9 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Try reimagined Chilean classics<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/pulperiasantaelvira.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">La Pulper\u00eda Santa Elvira<\/a>, a few blocks south, has only seen its reputation grow since opening in 2018. The place has a cozy, front-room feel, with family photos on the walls and squat jars of pickles, peppers and spices dotted around. You can also sit outside in a courtyard on warm summer evenings. The chef&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/avileslira\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Javier Avil\u00e9s<\/a>\u2019 small menu, which changes often, remixes seasonal Chilean classics, such as a creative bread basket that plays on&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.atlasobscura.com\/articles\/what-is-la-once\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">\u201cla once,\u201d<\/a>&nbsp;a traditional afternoon meal. Others play with textures, like a pumpkin puree served in its hard skin. Three courses and a glass of local wine come to about 35,000 pesos per person. Book in advance via&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/wa.me\/56996513466\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">WhatsApp<\/a>&nbsp;or on the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/fiweex.com\/reservas_portal_bienvenida\/Z4R6hA%3D%3D\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">website<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-lfgv\/21hours-santiago-lfgv-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"People sit at a long wooden table in a lantern-lit courtyard, lush with greenery, in the evening. Glasses of wine and other drinks sit on the table in front of them. \"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>People drink in El Bajo, a plant-filled mezzanine bar under the GAM, a distinctive arts center that hosts exhibitions, book fairs and live events.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Saturday<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-gvwm\/21hours-santiago-gvwm-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"A museum with glass surfaces displays a tall wall covered in hundreds of black-and-white photos of people. \"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>10 a.m.&nbsp;<strong>Trace the scars of a violent coup<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In a striking, container-like building, the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/mmdh.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos<\/a>&nbsp;is sobering but essential. The museum walks visitors through Chile\u2019s dictatorship, from General Pinochet\u2019s coup d\u2019\u00e9tat on Sept. 11, 1973, that divided the country, to the nation\u2019s return to democracy in 1990. A wall displaying the faces of the more than 3,000 forcibly disappeared or executed men, women and children, best viewed from the second floor, is chilling. The museum takes about an hour to visit and is free, although voluntary donations are encouraged if you choose to take an audio guide (available in English, Spanish, French or Portuguese). There is also an&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/apps.apple.com\/gb\/app\/mmdh-app\/id1599154040\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">intuitive free smartphone app<\/a>&nbsp;in Spanish or English. To book a guided tour for up to 15 people,&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/interactive\/2023\/09\/21\/travel\/null\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">email<\/a>&nbsp;the museum in advance, and check the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/mmdh.cl\/cartelera\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">schedule<\/a>&nbsp;for talks and events.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-hmjg\/21hours-santiago-hmjg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing a long-sleeved collared shirt and a black tie sits at a small wooden table in the corner of a restaurant. The walls are painted light blue and hung with framed old portraits and documents. A large mirror on the wall reflects the seated diner.\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Peluquer\u00eda Francesa<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>11:30 a.m.&nbsp;<strong>Visit a historic restaurant \u2026 for a haircut<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>From the museum, head up Compa\u00f1ia de Jes\u00fas, a colorful street bisecting Barrio Yungay, a gritty, low-rise neighborhood. (In 2022, the leftist millennial president Gabriel Boric and his partner, Irina Karamanos, shunned recent precedent and made the neighborhood their&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.cnnchile.com\/pais\/casa-gabriel-boric-barrio-yungay_20220215\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">new home<\/a>, rather than a lavish uptown residence.) Enjoy the politically charged murals splashed across historic buildings, and look for the 155-year-old&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/peluqueriafrancesa.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Peluquer\u00eda Francesa<\/a>&nbsp;restaurant (where you can get good food, and, strangely, a haircut). Peer down&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.santiagoturismo.cl\/pasaje-adriana-cousino\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Pasaje Adriana Cousi\u00f1o<\/a>, a beautiful passageway with checkerboard sidewalks and palm trees, where you\u2019ll also find the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/teteriacleopatrachile\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Teter\u00eda Cleopatra<\/a>, a feline tearoom. If you\u2019d prefer coffee and no cats, then an americano and alfajor cookie at&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/cite.scl\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Caf\u00e9 Cit\u00e9<\/a>, which has sleek metal furniture in a renovated historic building, will cost you 4,500 pesos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-lwmf\/21hours-santiago-lwmf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"A close-up of a stew in a dark-colored bowl. And identical bowl of stew, behind, is being fired with a kitchen blowtorch. \"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>El Franchute del Barrio<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Cheer for your singing waiter<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Take the metro down to Franklin, a booming commercial neighborhood full of surprises. There, in the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/persavictormanuel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Persa V\u00edctor Manuel<\/a>&nbsp;flea market you\u2019ll find&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/elfranchutedelbarrio\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">El Franchute del Barrio<\/a>, a French-inspired restaurant cooking onion soup, duck a l\u2019orange, tagines and cr\u00e8me brul\u00e9e. Every inch of wallspace is adorned with art and photography, and shafts of light criss-cross the beams supporting the roof. Every now and then, the restaurant falls into awestruck silence when Carlos D\u00edaz, a 31-year-old baritone-turned-waiter from rural Venezuela, bursts into song. Ask for the fresh oysters, which don\u2019t usually make it onto the chalkboard menu the waiters pass between the tables. It\u2019s walk-in only, so put your name down and listen to the regular cast of musicians who swing by \u2014 it\u2019s worth the wait. The three-course lunch deal, without drinks, comes to 17,000 pesos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>2 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Lose yourself in a flea market<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After lunch, explore the&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/persavictormanuel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Persa V\u00edctor Manuel<\/a>&nbsp;flea market, a former leather-tanning works that is one of the few spaces where Santiaguinos of different socioeconomic backgrounds mix. Start at&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/galerialacurtiembre.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Galer\u00eda La Curtiembre<\/a>, an art gallery where you can pick up stylized maps of the market, before venturing into the incense-infused alleyways with more than 1,200 stalls. Among the market\u2019s characters are Carlos Escobar, who wears solderer\u2019s goggles and sells old film cameras, and the collector Roberto \u00c1vila, who has maps and monographs of Chile and elsewhere \u2014 some from the 1800s. Marvel at&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/periodistafurioso\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Basti\u00e1n Cifuentes\u2019 photography<\/a>&nbsp;of the social unrest in 2019, and pick up colorful prints at the gallery of the muralist&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/monogonzalezchile\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Alejandro \u2018El Mono\u2019 Gonz\u00e1lez&nbsp;<\/a>(where you might meet the artist). For a post-lunch pickup,&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.kiligcoffee.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Kilig<\/a>, next to El Mono\u2019s stall, has the market\u2019s best coffee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-hcpq\/21hours-santiago-hcpq-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"A bartender wearing a denim apron stirs one of two clear-colored drinks on a marble counter, each garnished with orange slices. \"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Destilados Quintal at Factor\u00eda Franklin<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>3:30 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Chill in the courtyard<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A couple of blocks east is&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.santiagoturismo.cl\/factoria-franklin\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Factor\u00eda Franklin<\/a>, a new labyrinthine arts and cultural space built in&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.researchgate.net\/publication\/355423817_The_Invention_of_Abandonment_and_the_Rescue_of_a_Neighborhood_A_Tiny_Glance_to_Franklin%27s_Sanitas_Building_in_Santiago_de_Chile\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">former pharmaceutical laboratories<\/a>, and entered through a nondescript warehouse door. You\u2019ll step into a courtyard with stalls and workshops offering&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/miraifoodlab\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">kombucha<\/a>,&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/alchimia.brew\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">home-brewed beer<\/a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.destiladosquintal.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Destilados Quintal\u2019s<\/a>&nbsp;gin infused with native botanicals (a gin and tonic costs 5,500 pesos). Upstairs are the tiled workspaces of the Colombian coffee roaster&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/andariegocoffee.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Andariego<\/a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/bymaria.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bymaria\u2019s<\/a>&nbsp;pickle and salsa kitchen. Down the alleyway at the back is&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/galeriaafa\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">AFA Galer\u00eda<\/a>, a modern art gallery, and a&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/factoria_franklin\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">large warehouse<\/a>, which hosts art fairs and sales. The whole space is open daily, but it\u2019s liveliest on weekends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>7:30 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Try the original completo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As far as national cuisines go, a hot dog drowned in mayonnaise, tomato and mashed avocado might not blow you away. Still, you must try a completo. As the story goes, in the 1920s, a young Chilean man named Eduardo Bahamondes returned from the United States to Santiago with a simple hot dog, inflaming passions by adding toppings and quickly establishing a new national obsession. At&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/elportalexbahamondes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">El Portal Ex Bahamondes<\/a>, the brightly lit, mirror-lined diner he opened in 1928 on Santiago\u2019s Plaza de Armas, the most traditional combination is a vienesa italiana (named for the the avocado-mayonnaise-tomato layers that resemble Italy\u2019s tricolor), but you could also opt for a chacarero: tomato, green beans, green chili and mayonnaise. A completo and a pint of Escudo lager cost 3,000 pesos each.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-tvgf\/21hours-santiago-tvgf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"Performers in short, glittery dresses perform with microphones on a small stage with a band that includes a saxophonist, drummer and trumpet player. \"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>El Bajo<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>8:30 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Drink in an artsy bar<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Stroll from the Plaza de Armas to Lastarria, one of Santiago\u2019s liveliest areas. Start at&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/barelbajo.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">El Bajo<\/a>, a bar under&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/gam.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">the GAM<\/a>, the distinctive arts center named for Chile\u2019s first Nobel laureate, the poet and educator Gabriela Mistral. After the presidential palace was bombed during the coup, the military junta ruled Chile from the tower above El Bajo until 1981. Order two pisco sours, one Peruvian (with egg white and lime) and one Chilean (sans egg, with lemon), for 6,500 pesos each. Then head to&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/djdh3kzVERVARckn6\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Caf\u00e9 Escondido<\/a>, a plaza with tables beneath a gnarled ficus tree. In his youth, President Salvador Allende lived next door. Order a carafe of borgo\u00f1a for 12,500 pesos, a strawberry-infused equivalent of sangr\u00eda, and sit back while roving musicians play Chilean classics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>11:30 p.m.&nbsp;<strong>Join an eclectic crowd on the dancefloor<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Take an Uber downtown to&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.blondie.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Blondie<\/a>, an L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub in a former movie theater which provides for a wide range of ages and tastes. Enter through a neon-lit shopping arcade, pay your 10,000-peso cover and descend a series of Escher-esque staircases with arcade games on the landings onto the dancefloor. The room has a podium in the middle, disco balls and a giant ceiling fan revolving slowly beneath glowing cubes. Drinks cost about 4,000 to 8,000 pesos. There\u2019s also a small but intense techno room upstairs beyond a low doorway. If it\u2019s not your scene, head over the muddy trickle that was once the mighty Mapocho River to lively Bellavista, where thumping bass lines compete with blaring cumbia. There,&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/salsotecamaestravida\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Salsoteca Maestra Vida<\/a>&nbsp;(8,000 peso entry) is a good bet for all-night salsa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-qbfm\/21hours-santiago-qbfm-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"People dance in a nightclub illuminated with glowing blue cubes on the ceiling and beams of hot-pink light projecting around the room. Two people in the center of the photo are kissing.\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Enter Blondie, an L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub in a former movie theater, via a neon-lit shopping arcade and descend a series of Escher-esque staircases with arcade games on the landings to reach the dancefloor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sunday<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/09\/21\/multimedia\/21hours-santiago-fztg\/21hours-santiago-fztg-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\" alt=\"Two people sitting inside a cable car as it traverses a mountainous area. One person is looking out the window and taking a photo on their smartphone.\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>10 a.m.&nbsp;<strong>Hike a city-center hill<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Clear a sore head with a sharp ascent up&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/parquemet.cl\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Cerro San Crist\u00f3bal<\/a>, a green islet of native trees and plants in the city center. At 10 a.m., the cable car opens, getting you to the top in under 10 minutes (a hop-on, hop-off day ticket costs 7,900 pesos and includes the funicular railway and shuttle buses within the 1,821-acre Parque Metropolitana). If you\u2019d rather do the hour-long hike, start at the Pedro de Valdivia Norte entrance. As you climb, enjoy&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/parquemet.cl\/lugares\/mirador-cordillera\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">panoramic views of the city<\/a>&nbsp;and mountains, incongruously punctured by the 980-foot, needle-like Gran Torre Santiago, South America\u2019s tallest building. Your reward at the summit is a mote con huesillo (around 2,500 pesos), a refreshing, sweet juice containing a rehydrated peach and a handful of corn, available from the many stands at&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/parquemet.cl\/lugares\/estacion-cumbre-funicular\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Estaci\u00f3n Cumbre<\/a>. To descend, take the funicular down the far side, leaving you in Bellavista \u2014 and just a block from&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/fundacionneruda.org\/museos-casa-museo-la-chascona\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">La Chascona<\/a>, the poet Pablo Neruda\u2019s quirky home.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The New York Times &#8211; Because Santiago, Chile\u2019s sprawling capital, is the gateway to some of the world\u2019s greatest natural wonders \u2014 Patagonia, the Atacama Desert, Easter Island \u2014 many travelers understandably breeze through. It might not wow like Rio de Janeiro or Buenos Aires, but scratch the surface and the city is alive with music, art and nightlife, against the arresting backdrop of the Andes. Divisions still run deep, 50 years after Gen. Augusto Pinochet\u2019s U.S.-backed&nbsp;coup d\u2019\u00e9tat&nbsp;ushered in a 17-year dictatorship. Just four years ago, Chile exploded into cathartic and, at times, violent unrest, as hundreds of thousands of Santiaguinos protested social inequalities. The scars are there for all to see. But if you\u2019ve made it all this way, you should give Santiago a chance to impress. Recommendations Key stops Restaurants and nightspots Museums, galleries and shopping Where to stay Getting around Itinerary Friday 7:30 p.m.&nbsp;Step to the rhythm of la cueca To the uninitiated, la cueca, which was declared Chile\u2019s national dance by the Pinochet regime in 1979, can appear a bewildering whirl of handkerchiefs and heels. Get the basics at&nbsp;la Casa de la Cueca, a cheerful dancehall at the top of a narrow staircase in the up-and-coming Matta Sur neighborhood. On Fridays, the establishment hosts dance classes (3,000 Chilean pesos, or about $3.40) to a live soundtrack of local musicians. Mar\u00eda Esther Zamora and her husband, Pepe Fuentes, opened the space in 1996, bedecking it with flags and photographs of the city. Sadly, Mr. Fuentes passed away in 2020 and the pandemic nearly forced the place\u2019s closure, but the dance classes \u2014 and raucous three-course lunches on the first Sunday of each month (22,000 pesos, book in advance) \u2014 show that la Casa de la Cueca is back stronger than ever. 9 p.m.&nbsp;Try reimagined Chilean classics La Pulper\u00eda Santa Elvira, a few blocks south, has only seen its reputation grow since opening in 2018. The place has a cozy, front-room feel, with family photos on the walls and squat jars of pickles, peppers and spices dotted around. You can also sit outside in a courtyard on warm summer evenings. The chef&nbsp;Javier Avil\u00e9s\u2019 small menu, which changes often, remixes seasonal Chilean classics, such as a creative bread basket that plays on&nbsp;\u201cla once,\u201d&nbsp;a traditional afternoon meal. Others play with textures, like a pumpkin puree served in its hard skin. Three courses and a glass of local wine come to about 35,000 pesos per person. Book in advance via&nbsp;WhatsApp&nbsp;or on the&nbsp;website. People drink in El Bajo, a plant-filled mezzanine bar under the GAM, a distinctive arts center that hosts exhibitions, book fairs and live events. Saturday 10 a.m.&nbsp;Trace the scars of a violent coup In a striking, container-like building, the&nbsp;Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos&nbsp;is sobering but essential. The museum walks visitors through Chile\u2019s dictatorship, from General Pinochet\u2019s coup d\u2019\u00e9tat on Sept. 11, 1973, that divided the country, to the nation\u2019s return to democracy in 1990. A wall displaying the faces of the more than 3,000 forcibly disappeared or executed men, women and children, best viewed from the second floor, is chilling. The museum takes about an hour to visit and is free, although voluntary donations are encouraged if you choose to take an audio guide (available in English, Spanish, French or Portuguese). There is also an&nbsp;intuitive free smartphone app&nbsp;in Spanish or English. To book a guided tour for up to 15 people,&nbsp;email&nbsp;the museum in advance, and check the&nbsp;schedule&nbsp;for talks and events. Peluquer\u00eda Francesa 11:30 a.m.&nbsp;Visit a historic restaurant \u2026 for a haircut From the museum, head up Compa\u00f1ia de Jes\u00fas, a colorful street bisecting Barrio Yungay, a gritty, low-rise neighborhood. (In 2022, the leftist millennial president Gabriel Boric and his partner, Irina Karamanos, shunned recent precedent and made the neighborhood their&nbsp;new home, rather than a lavish uptown residence.) Enjoy the politically charged murals splashed across historic buildings, and look for the 155-year-old&nbsp;Peluquer\u00eda Francesa&nbsp;restaurant (where you can get good food, and, strangely, a haircut). Peer down&nbsp;Pasaje Adriana Cousi\u00f1o, a beautiful passageway with checkerboard sidewalks and palm trees, where you\u2019ll also find the&nbsp;Teter\u00eda Cleopatra, a feline tearoom. If you\u2019d prefer coffee and no cats, then an americano and alfajor cookie at&nbsp;Caf\u00e9 Cit\u00e9, which has sleek metal furniture in a renovated historic building, will cost you 4,500 pesos. El Franchute del Barrio 1 p.m.&nbsp;Cheer for your singing waiter Take the metro down to Franklin, a booming commercial neighborhood full of surprises. There, in the&nbsp;Persa V\u00edctor Manuel&nbsp;flea market you\u2019ll find&nbsp;El Franchute del Barrio, a French-inspired restaurant cooking onion soup, duck a l\u2019orange, tagines and cr\u00e8me brul\u00e9e. Every inch of wallspace is adorned with art and photography, and shafts of light criss-cross the beams supporting the roof. Every now and then, the restaurant falls into awestruck silence when Carlos D\u00edaz, a 31-year-old baritone-turned-waiter from rural Venezuela, bursts into song. Ask for the fresh oysters, which don\u2019t usually make it onto the chalkboard menu the waiters pass between the tables. It\u2019s walk-in only, so put your name down and listen to the regular cast of musicians who swing by \u2014 it\u2019s worth the wait. The three-course lunch deal, without drinks, comes to 17,000 pesos. 2 p.m.&nbsp;Lose yourself in a flea market After lunch, explore the&nbsp;Persa V\u00edctor Manuel&nbsp;flea market, a former leather-tanning works that is one of the few spaces where Santiaguinos of different socioeconomic backgrounds mix. Start at&nbsp;Galer\u00eda La Curtiembre, an art gallery where you can pick up stylized maps of the market, before venturing into the incense-infused alleyways with more than 1,200 stalls. Among the market\u2019s characters are Carlos Escobar, who wears solderer\u2019s goggles and sells old film cameras, and the collector Roberto \u00c1vila, who has maps and monographs of Chile and elsewhere \u2014 some from the 1800s. Marvel at&nbsp;Basti\u00e1n Cifuentes\u2019 photography&nbsp;of the social unrest in 2019, and pick up colorful prints at the gallery of the muralist&nbsp;Alejandro \u2018El Mono\u2019 Gonz\u00e1lez&nbsp;(where you might meet the artist). For a post-lunch pickup,&nbsp;Kilig, next to El Mono\u2019s stall, has the market\u2019s best coffee. Destilados Quintal at Factor\u00eda Franklin 3:30 p.m.&nbsp;Chill in the courtyard A couple of blocks east is&nbsp;Factor\u00eda Franklin, a new labyrinthine arts and cultural space built in&nbsp;former pharmaceutical laboratories, and entered through a nondescript warehouse door. You\u2019ll step into a courtyard with stalls and workshops offering&nbsp;kombucha,&nbsp;home-brewed beer&nbsp;and&nbsp;Destilados Quintal\u2019s&nbsp;gin infused with native botanicals (a gin and tonic costs 5,500 pesos). Upstairs are the tiled workspaces of the Colombian coffee roaster&nbsp;Andariego&nbsp;and&nbsp;Bymaria\u2019s&nbsp;pickle and salsa kitchen. Down the alleyway at the back is&nbsp;AFA Galer\u00eda, a modern art gallery, and a&nbsp;large warehouse, which hosts art fairs and sales. The whole space is open daily, but it\u2019s liveliest on weekends. 7:30 p.m.&nbsp;Try the original completo As far as national cuisines go, a hot dog drowned in mayonnaise, tomato and mashed avocado might not blow you away. Still, you must try a completo. As the story goes, in the 1920s, a young Chilean man named Eduardo Bahamondes returned from the United States to Santiago with a simple hot dog, inflaming passions by adding toppings and quickly establishing a new national obsession. At&nbsp;El Portal Ex Bahamondes, the brightly lit, mirror-lined diner he opened in 1928 on Santiago\u2019s Plaza de Armas, the most traditional combination is a vienesa italiana (named for the the avocado-mayonnaise-tomato layers that resemble Italy\u2019s tricolor), but you could also opt for a chacarero: tomato, green beans, green chili and mayonnaise. A completo and a pint of Escudo lager cost 3,000 pesos each. El Bajo 8:30 p.m.&nbsp;Drink in an artsy bar Stroll from the Plaza de Armas to Lastarria, one of Santiago\u2019s liveliest areas. Start at&nbsp;El Bajo, a bar under&nbsp;the GAM, the distinctive arts center named for Chile\u2019s first Nobel laureate, the poet and educator Gabriela Mistral. After the presidential palace was bombed during the coup, the military junta ruled Chile from the tower above El Bajo until 1981. Order two pisco sours, one Peruvian (with egg white and lime) and one Chilean (sans egg, with lemon), for 6,500 pesos each. Then head to&nbsp;Caf\u00e9 Escondido, a plaza with tables beneath a gnarled ficus tree. In his youth, President Salvador Allende lived next door. Order a carafe of borgo\u00f1a for 12,500 pesos, a strawberry-infused equivalent of sangr\u00eda, and sit back while roving musicians play Chilean classics. 11:30 p.m.&nbsp;Join an eclectic crowd on the dancefloor Take an Uber downtown to&nbsp;Blondie, an L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub in a former movie theater which provides for a wide range of ages and tastes. Enter through a neon-lit shopping arcade, pay your 10,000-peso cover and descend a [&hellip;]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5142,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5141","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-prensa"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>36 Hours in Santiago, Chile: Things to Do and See - The New York Times - Persa Victor Manuel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/en\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"36 Hours in Santiago, Chile: Things to Do and See - The New York Times - Persa Victor Manuel\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The New York Times &#8211; Because Santiago, Chile\u2019s sprawling capital, is the gateway to some of the world\u2019s greatest natural wonders \u2014 Patagonia, the Atacama Desert, Easter Island \u2014 many travelers understandably breeze through. It might not wow like Rio de Janeiro or Buenos Aires, but scratch the surface and the city is alive with music, art and nightlife, against the arresting backdrop of the Andes. Divisions still run deep, 50 years after Gen. Augusto Pinochet\u2019s U.S.-backed&nbsp;coup d\u2019\u00e9tat&nbsp;ushered in a 17-year dictatorship. Just four years ago, Chile exploded into cathartic and, at times, violent unrest, as hundreds of thousands of Santiaguinos protested social inequalities. The scars are there for all to see. But if you\u2019ve made it all this way, you should give Santiago a chance to impress. Recommendations Key stops Restaurants and nightspots Museums, galleries and shopping Where to stay Getting around Itinerary Friday 7:30 p.m.&nbsp;Step to the rhythm of la cueca To the uninitiated, la cueca, which was declared Chile\u2019s national dance by the Pinochet regime in 1979, can appear a bewildering whirl of handkerchiefs and heels. Get the basics at&nbsp;la Casa de la Cueca, a cheerful dancehall at the top of a narrow staircase in the up-and-coming Matta Sur neighborhood. On Fridays, the establishment hosts dance classes (3,000 Chilean pesos, or about $3.40) to a live soundtrack of local musicians. Mar\u00eda Esther Zamora and her husband, Pepe Fuentes, opened the space in 1996, bedecking it with flags and photographs of the city. Sadly, Mr. Fuentes passed away in 2020 and the pandemic nearly forced the place\u2019s closure, but the dance classes \u2014 and raucous three-course lunches on the first Sunday of each month (22,000 pesos, book in advance) \u2014 show that la Casa de la Cueca is back stronger than ever. 9 p.m.&nbsp;Try reimagined Chilean classics La Pulper\u00eda Santa Elvira, a few blocks south, has only seen its reputation grow since opening in 2018. The place has a cozy, front-room feel, with family photos on the walls and squat jars of pickles, peppers and spices dotted around. You can also sit outside in a courtyard on warm summer evenings. The chef&nbsp;Javier Avil\u00e9s\u2019 small menu, which changes often, remixes seasonal Chilean classics, such as a creative bread basket that plays on&nbsp;\u201cla once,\u201d&nbsp;a traditional afternoon meal. Others play with textures, like a pumpkin puree served in its hard skin. Three courses and a glass of local wine come to about 35,000 pesos per person. Book in advance via&nbsp;WhatsApp&nbsp;or on the&nbsp;website. People drink in El Bajo, a plant-filled mezzanine bar under the GAM, a distinctive arts center that hosts exhibitions, book fairs and live events. Saturday 10 a.m.&nbsp;Trace the scars of a violent coup In a striking, container-like building, the&nbsp;Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos&nbsp;is sobering but essential. The museum walks visitors through Chile\u2019s dictatorship, from General Pinochet\u2019s coup d\u2019\u00e9tat on Sept. 11, 1973, that divided the country, to the nation\u2019s return to democracy in 1990. A wall displaying the faces of the more than 3,000 forcibly disappeared or executed men, women and children, best viewed from the second floor, is chilling. The museum takes about an hour to visit and is free, although voluntary donations are encouraged if you choose to take an audio guide (available in English, Spanish, French or Portuguese). There is also an&nbsp;intuitive free smartphone app&nbsp;in Spanish or English. To book a guided tour for up to 15 people,&nbsp;email&nbsp;the museum in advance, and check the&nbsp;schedule&nbsp;for talks and events. Peluquer\u00eda Francesa 11:30 a.m.&nbsp;Visit a historic restaurant \u2026 for a haircut From the museum, head up Compa\u00f1ia de Jes\u00fas, a colorful street bisecting Barrio Yungay, a gritty, low-rise neighborhood. (In 2022, the leftist millennial president Gabriel Boric and his partner, Irina Karamanos, shunned recent precedent and made the neighborhood their&nbsp;new home, rather than a lavish uptown residence.) Enjoy the politically charged murals splashed across historic buildings, and look for the 155-year-old&nbsp;Peluquer\u00eda Francesa&nbsp;restaurant (where you can get good food, and, strangely, a haircut). Peer down&nbsp;Pasaje Adriana Cousi\u00f1o, a beautiful passageway with checkerboard sidewalks and palm trees, where you\u2019ll also find the&nbsp;Teter\u00eda Cleopatra, a feline tearoom. If you\u2019d prefer coffee and no cats, then an americano and alfajor cookie at&nbsp;Caf\u00e9 Cit\u00e9, which has sleek metal furniture in a renovated historic building, will cost you 4,500 pesos. El Franchute del Barrio 1 p.m.&nbsp;Cheer for your singing waiter Take the metro down to Franklin, a booming commercial neighborhood full of surprises. There, in the&nbsp;Persa V\u00edctor Manuel&nbsp;flea market you\u2019ll find&nbsp;El Franchute del Barrio, a French-inspired restaurant cooking onion soup, duck a l\u2019orange, tagines and cr\u00e8me brul\u00e9e. Every inch of wallspace is adorned with art and photography, and shafts of light criss-cross the beams supporting the roof. Every now and then, the restaurant falls into awestruck silence when Carlos D\u00edaz, a 31-year-old baritone-turned-waiter from rural Venezuela, bursts into song. Ask for the fresh oysters, which don\u2019t usually make it onto the chalkboard menu the waiters pass between the tables. It\u2019s walk-in only, so put your name down and listen to the regular cast of musicians who swing by \u2014 it\u2019s worth the wait. The three-course lunch deal, without drinks, comes to 17,000 pesos. 2 p.m.&nbsp;Lose yourself in a flea market After lunch, explore the&nbsp;Persa V\u00edctor Manuel&nbsp;flea market, a former leather-tanning works that is one of the few spaces where Santiaguinos of different socioeconomic backgrounds mix. Start at&nbsp;Galer\u00eda La Curtiembre, an art gallery where you can pick up stylized maps of the market, before venturing into the incense-infused alleyways with more than 1,200 stalls. Among the market\u2019s characters are Carlos Escobar, who wears solderer\u2019s goggles and sells old film cameras, and the collector Roberto \u00c1vila, who has maps and monographs of Chile and elsewhere \u2014 some from the 1800s. Marvel at&nbsp;Basti\u00e1n Cifuentes\u2019 photography&nbsp;of the social unrest in 2019, and pick up colorful prints at the gallery of the muralist&nbsp;Alejandro \u2018El Mono\u2019 Gonz\u00e1lez&nbsp;(where you might meet the artist). For a post-lunch pickup,&nbsp;Kilig, next to El Mono\u2019s stall, has the market\u2019s best coffee. Destilados Quintal at Factor\u00eda Franklin 3:30 p.m.&nbsp;Chill in the courtyard A couple of blocks east is&nbsp;Factor\u00eda Franklin, a new labyrinthine arts and cultural space built in&nbsp;former pharmaceutical laboratories, and entered through a nondescript warehouse door. You\u2019ll step into a courtyard with stalls and workshops offering&nbsp;kombucha,&nbsp;home-brewed beer&nbsp;and&nbsp;Destilados Quintal\u2019s&nbsp;gin infused with native botanicals (a gin and tonic costs 5,500 pesos). Upstairs are the tiled workspaces of the Colombian coffee roaster&nbsp;Andariego&nbsp;and&nbsp;Bymaria\u2019s&nbsp;pickle and salsa kitchen. Down the alleyway at the back is&nbsp;AFA Galer\u00eda, a modern art gallery, and a&nbsp;large warehouse, which hosts art fairs and sales. The whole space is open daily, but it\u2019s liveliest on weekends. 7:30 p.m.&nbsp;Try the original completo As far as national cuisines go, a hot dog drowned in mayonnaise, tomato and mashed avocado might not blow you away. Still, you must try a completo. As the story goes, in the 1920s, a young Chilean man named Eduardo Bahamondes returned from the United States to Santiago with a simple hot dog, inflaming passions by adding toppings and quickly establishing a new national obsession. At&nbsp;El Portal Ex Bahamondes, the brightly lit, mirror-lined diner he opened in 1928 on Santiago\u2019s Plaza de Armas, the most traditional combination is a vienesa italiana (named for the the avocado-mayonnaise-tomato layers that resemble Italy\u2019s tricolor), but you could also opt for a chacarero: tomato, green beans, green chili and mayonnaise. A completo and a pint of Escudo lager cost 3,000 pesos each. El Bajo 8:30 p.m.&nbsp;Drink in an artsy bar Stroll from the Plaza de Armas to Lastarria, one of Santiago\u2019s liveliest areas. Start at&nbsp;El Bajo, a bar under&nbsp;the GAM, the distinctive arts center named for Chile\u2019s first Nobel laureate, the poet and educator Gabriela Mistral. After the presidential palace was bombed during the coup, the military junta ruled Chile from the tower above El Bajo until 1981. Order two pisco sours, one Peruvian (with egg white and lime) and one Chilean (sans egg, with lemon), for 6,500 pesos each. Then head to&nbsp;Caf\u00e9 Escondido, a plaza with tables beneath a gnarled ficus tree. In his youth, President Salvador Allende lived next door. Order a carafe of borgo\u00f1a for 12,500 pesos, a strawberry-infused equivalent of sangr\u00eda, and sit back while roving musicians play Chilean classics. 11:30 p.m.&nbsp;Join an eclectic crowd on the dancefloor Take an Uber downtown to&nbsp;Blondie, an L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub in a former movie theater which provides for a wide range of ages and tastes. Enter through a neon-lit shopping arcade, pay your 10,000-peso cover and descend a [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/en\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Persa Victor Manuel\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-08-15T00:35:57+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-10-21T22:03:19+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/21hours-santiago-gphb-facebookJumbo.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1050\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"549\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Persa Victor Manuel\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Persa Victor Manuel\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"12 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Persa Victor Manuel\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/#\/schema\/person\/9310e3b8e7e5d48488fc522239d30870\"},\"headline\":\"36 Hours in Santiago, Chile: Things to Do and See &#8211; 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Because Santiago, Chile\u2019s sprawling capital, is the gateway to some of the world\u2019s greatest natural wonders \u2014 Patagonia, the Atacama Desert, Easter Island \u2014 many travelers understandably breeze through. It might not wow like Rio de Janeiro or Buenos Aires, but scratch the surface and the city is alive with music, art and nightlife, against the arresting backdrop of the Andes. Divisions still run deep, 50 years after Gen. Augusto Pinochet\u2019s U.S.-backed&nbsp;coup d\u2019\u00e9tat&nbsp;ushered in a 17-year dictatorship. Just four years ago, Chile exploded into cathartic and, at times, violent unrest, as hundreds of thousands of Santiaguinos protested social inequalities. The scars are there for all to see. But if you\u2019ve made it all this way, you should give Santiago a chance to impress. Recommendations Key stops Restaurants and nightspots Museums, galleries and shopping Where to stay Getting around Itinerary Friday 7:30 p.m.&nbsp;Step to the rhythm of la cueca To the uninitiated, la cueca, which was declared Chile\u2019s national dance by the Pinochet regime in 1979, can appear a bewildering whirl of handkerchiefs and heels. Get the basics at&nbsp;la Casa de la Cueca, a cheerful dancehall at the top of a narrow staircase in the up-and-coming Matta Sur neighborhood. On Fridays, the establishment hosts dance classes (3,000 Chilean pesos, or about $3.40) to a live soundtrack of local musicians. Mar\u00eda Esther Zamora and her husband, Pepe Fuentes, opened the space in 1996, bedecking it with flags and photographs of the city. Sadly, Mr. Fuentes passed away in 2020 and the pandemic nearly forced the place\u2019s closure, but the dance classes \u2014 and raucous three-course lunches on the first Sunday of each month (22,000 pesos, book in advance) \u2014 show that la Casa de la Cueca is back stronger than ever. 9 p.m.&nbsp;Try reimagined Chilean classics La Pulper\u00eda Santa Elvira, a few blocks south, has only seen its reputation grow since opening in 2018. The place has a cozy, front-room feel, with family photos on the walls and squat jars of pickles, peppers and spices dotted around. You can also sit outside in a courtyard on warm summer evenings. The chef&nbsp;Javier Avil\u00e9s\u2019 small menu, which changes often, remixes seasonal Chilean classics, such as a creative bread basket that plays on&nbsp;\u201cla once,\u201d&nbsp;a traditional afternoon meal. Others play with textures, like a pumpkin puree served in its hard skin. Three courses and a glass of local wine come to about 35,000 pesos per person. Book in advance via&nbsp;WhatsApp&nbsp;or on the&nbsp;website. People drink in El Bajo, a plant-filled mezzanine bar under the GAM, a distinctive arts center that hosts exhibitions, book fairs and live events. Saturday 10 a.m.&nbsp;Trace the scars of a violent coup In a striking, container-like building, the&nbsp;Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos&nbsp;is sobering but essential. The museum walks visitors through Chile\u2019s dictatorship, from General Pinochet\u2019s coup d\u2019\u00e9tat on Sept. 11, 1973, that divided the country, to the nation\u2019s return to democracy in 1990. A wall displaying the faces of the more than 3,000 forcibly disappeared or executed men, women and children, best viewed from the second floor, is chilling. The museum takes about an hour to visit and is free, although voluntary donations are encouraged if you choose to take an audio guide (available in English, Spanish, French or Portuguese). There is also an&nbsp;intuitive free smartphone app&nbsp;in Spanish or English. To book a guided tour for up to 15 people,&nbsp;email&nbsp;the museum in advance, and check the&nbsp;schedule&nbsp;for talks and events. Peluquer\u00eda Francesa 11:30 a.m.&nbsp;Visit a historic restaurant \u2026 for a haircut From the museum, head up Compa\u00f1ia de Jes\u00fas, a colorful street bisecting Barrio Yungay, a gritty, low-rise neighborhood. (In 2022, the leftist millennial president Gabriel Boric and his partner, Irina Karamanos, shunned recent precedent and made the neighborhood their&nbsp;new home, rather than a lavish uptown residence.) Enjoy the politically charged murals splashed across historic buildings, and look for the 155-year-old&nbsp;Peluquer\u00eda Francesa&nbsp;restaurant (where you can get good food, and, strangely, a haircut). Peer down&nbsp;Pasaje Adriana Cousi\u00f1o, a beautiful passageway with checkerboard sidewalks and palm trees, where you\u2019ll also find the&nbsp;Teter\u00eda Cleopatra, a feline tearoom. If you\u2019d prefer coffee and no cats, then an americano and alfajor cookie at&nbsp;Caf\u00e9 Cit\u00e9, which has sleek metal furniture in a renovated historic building, will cost you 4,500 pesos. El Franchute del Barrio 1 p.m.&nbsp;Cheer for your singing waiter Take the metro down to Franklin, a booming commercial neighborhood full of surprises. There, in the&nbsp;Persa V\u00edctor Manuel&nbsp;flea market you\u2019ll find&nbsp;El Franchute del Barrio, a French-inspired restaurant cooking onion soup, duck a l\u2019orange, tagines and cr\u00e8me brul\u00e9e. Every inch of wallspace is adorned with art and photography, and shafts of light criss-cross the beams supporting the roof. Every now and then, the restaurant falls into awestruck silence when Carlos D\u00edaz, a 31-year-old baritone-turned-waiter from rural Venezuela, bursts into song. Ask for the fresh oysters, which don\u2019t usually make it onto the chalkboard menu the waiters pass between the tables. It\u2019s walk-in only, so put your name down and listen to the regular cast of musicians who swing by \u2014 it\u2019s worth the wait. The three-course lunch deal, without drinks, comes to 17,000 pesos. 2 p.m.&nbsp;Lose yourself in a flea market After lunch, explore the&nbsp;Persa V\u00edctor Manuel&nbsp;flea market, a former leather-tanning works that is one of the few spaces where Santiaguinos of different socioeconomic backgrounds mix. Start at&nbsp;Galer\u00eda La Curtiembre, an art gallery where you can pick up stylized maps of the market, before venturing into the incense-infused alleyways with more than 1,200 stalls. Among the market\u2019s characters are Carlos Escobar, who wears solderer\u2019s goggles and sells old film cameras, and the collector Roberto \u00c1vila, who has maps and monographs of Chile and elsewhere \u2014 some from the 1800s. Marvel at&nbsp;Basti\u00e1n Cifuentes\u2019 photography&nbsp;of the social unrest in 2019, and pick up colorful prints at the gallery of the muralist&nbsp;Alejandro \u2018El Mono\u2019 Gonz\u00e1lez&nbsp;(where you might meet the artist). For a post-lunch pickup,&nbsp;Kilig, next to El Mono\u2019s stall, has the market\u2019s best coffee. Destilados Quintal at Factor\u00eda Franklin 3:30 p.m.&nbsp;Chill in the courtyard A couple of blocks east is&nbsp;Factor\u00eda Franklin, a new labyrinthine arts and cultural space built in&nbsp;former pharmaceutical laboratories, and entered through a nondescript warehouse door. You\u2019ll step into a courtyard with stalls and workshops offering&nbsp;kombucha,&nbsp;home-brewed beer&nbsp;and&nbsp;Destilados Quintal\u2019s&nbsp;gin infused with native botanicals (a gin and tonic costs 5,500 pesos). Upstairs are the tiled workspaces of the Colombian coffee roaster&nbsp;Andariego&nbsp;and&nbsp;Bymaria\u2019s&nbsp;pickle and salsa kitchen. Down the alleyway at the back is&nbsp;AFA Galer\u00eda, a modern art gallery, and a&nbsp;large warehouse, which hosts art fairs and sales. The whole space is open daily, but it\u2019s liveliest on weekends. 7:30 p.m.&nbsp;Try the original completo As far as national cuisines go, a hot dog drowned in mayonnaise, tomato and mashed avocado might not blow you away. Still, you must try a completo. As the story goes, in the 1920s, a young Chilean man named Eduardo Bahamondes returned from the United States to Santiago with a simple hot dog, inflaming passions by adding toppings and quickly establishing a new national obsession. At&nbsp;El Portal Ex Bahamondes, the brightly lit, mirror-lined diner he opened in 1928 on Santiago\u2019s Plaza de Armas, the most traditional combination is a vienesa italiana (named for the the avocado-mayonnaise-tomato layers that resemble Italy\u2019s tricolor), but you could also opt for a chacarero: tomato, green beans, green chili and mayonnaise. A completo and a pint of Escudo lager cost 3,000 pesos each. El Bajo 8:30 p.m.&nbsp;Drink in an artsy bar Stroll from the Plaza de Armas to Lastarria, one of Santiago\u2019s liveliest areas. Start at&nbsp;El Bajo, a bar under&nbsp;the GAM, the distinctive arts center named for Chile\u2019s first Nobel laureate, the poet and educator Gabriela Mistral. After the presidential palace was bombed during the coup, the military junta ruled Chile from the tower above El Bajo until 1981. Order two pisco sours, one Peruvian (with egg white and lime) and one Chilean (sans egg, with lemon), for 6,500 pesos each. Then head to&nbsp;Caf\u00e9 Escondido, a plaza with tables beneath a gnarled ficus tree. In his youth, President Salvador Allende lived next door. Order a carafe of borgo\u00f1a for 12,500 pesos, a strawberry-infused equivalent of sangr\u00eda, and sit back while roving musicians play Chilean classics. 11:30 p.m.&nbsp;Join an eclectic crowd on the dancefloor Take an Uber downtown to&nbsp;Blondie, an L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub in a former movie theater which provides for a wide range of ages and tastes. Enter through a neon-lit shopping arcade, pay your 10,000-peso cover and descend a [&hellip;]","og_url":"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/en\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/","og_site_name":"Persa Victor Manuel","article_published_time":"2025-08-15T00:35:57+00:00","article_modified_time":"2025-10-21T22:03:19+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1050,"height":549,"url":"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/21hours-santiago-gphb-facebookJumbo.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Persa Victor Manuel","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Persa Victor Manuel","Est. reading time":"12 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/2025\/08\/15\/36-hours-in-santiago-chile\/"},"author":{"name":"Persa Victor Manuel","@id":"https:\/\/www.persavictormanuel.cl\/#\/schema\/person\/9310e3b8e7e5d48488fc522239d30870"},"headline":"36 Hours in Santiago, Chile: Things to Do and See &#8211; 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